My First Time Ski Touring in the Swiss Alps
Bel Jackson Prow tells the story of her 2-day beginners' ski tour from Leukerbad to Daubenhorn, staying in Lammernen hut.
It was a bright March morning on the Gemmi Pass and I was stuck, one leg in each direction with my bum pointing down the valley. Through my legs I could see Leukerbad, the colourful alpine town we’d set off from. I wished I was 1000m below in the spa. This was my first ski touring trip since Covid-19, and the comfort of home seemed to have taken the edge off my courage. The idea of the wild mountains had been enough to get me on the plane. Now I was here, I wasn't so sure.
The good news, or so I thought, was that I had Serge to help me. The Swiss guide, a man who moved like a chamois and weighed less than me, would be there when things got difficult. From above, as I lie splayed across the mountainside, he shouts, ''Do not fall.''
If the thought of skiing uphill sounds like hard work, you are not alone. But ski touring is booming and so I decided on a tour across the Swiss Alps, to find out if it was worth the effort. Touring ticks many boxes: open spaces, fitness and adventure. It also has a significantly lower impact than traditional resort skiing. For me, ski touring offers access to the wildest part of the Alps, but it is hard on mind and body. Regardless, I was in Switzerland ready to earn my views.
Day 1 - Leukerbad to Lammernen Hut
We left the comfort of the spa town of Leukerbad. One cable car later, we attached skins to skis and set off into the snow. Serge cut a trail, avoiding the avalanche-loaded south slope. Above us lay a plateau of heavy snow that could slide easily and set like concrete. I was nervous. To move through the gully, I had to kick turn (this is like performing the splits with wooden planks strapped to your feet). I try. I am stuck. After a demonstration from Serge and several expletives, I get the gist.
Above the gully, the mountains open up to the Wildstrubel. The wind whips the snow from the summits and spindrift hangs in the sunlit air. ''Welcome to wild nature,'' says Serge. It is serene and beautiful; I know this is why I came.
Four hours and 1000m later I am relieved to see the Lammernen hut. It was warm, safe and virtually empty. Each of the six-bed dorms contain two shelves of bunk beds. Luckily, I have a room to myself. Luxury comes in the form of privacy and a long drop toilet. As the sun sets amongst the rocks, we spot a fox, an ibex and a rare Griffon Vulture.
A group of Italian tourers arrive by headtorch just before dinner. Soup, cheesy pasta and the Swiss version of Angel Delight prove rich and plentiful. The room is buzzing with multilingual conversation and a universal atmosphere of survival. I turn in early and try to keep warm under the fusty duvet. Through the curtainless window, the moon is full and bright – the perfect ending to a wild day.
Day 2 - Daubenhorn
The next morning, after a hearty breakfast, we leave to climb the Daubenhorn. It looks foreboding. ''It is exposed at the top, and we might need a belay,'' says Serge. Panic rises. The belay is a rope that will tie us together. Should I fall, Serge will slam his axe into the ice to stop us. I consider Serge's 50kg frame doubtfully.
The snow on the final ascent is wind-polished to ice; we cut a ledge with the axe. With my whole weight on about one inch of ski, I hold my breath and, unbelievably, I do not fall. Between me and the summit is 50 metres of exposed ridge. I kick footholds into the snow with my ski boots and pull myself up. Out of the corner of my eye, I see the drop: the 1400m of limestone cliff that falls away to Leukerbad. ''Check out the view,'' says Serge. I don't look.
A metal chain pulls me towards the summit cross; I turn to see endless 4000m peaks stretching into a pink horizon. The fear and memory of the effort fall away. We make a dreamy descent in feather-light powder, creating perfect turns through the pristine expanse until we hit the valley floor.
At Sierre station, I say goodbye to Serge and toast my trip with hot chocolate. I sit on the platform and stare up to the summits. A quote by John Muir plays through my mind, ''In every walk in nature, one receives far more than he seeks.'' I know it will not be long before my next ski tour.
How to do this Ski Tour
Getting there: Geneva (Geneva airport and train station are approximately 200km from Leukerbad). From Geneva, you can travel by taxi or private car. For public transport, take the train to Leuk and then the bus to Leukerbad.
Money: There is currently around Swiss Franc CHF1.10 to the UK£. Payment by cash is generally expected in all huts. Expect to pay £6 for a beer in a hut.
When to go: Europe's hut-to-hut season is from mid-March to mid-May. Day tours are possible all winter. Daytime temperatures in spring can be below 0°C or up to 20°C; at night, they usually plunge below 0°C.
Health & safety: Travel insurance that covers snow sports is essential; check out the Austrian Alpine Club UK that is you can join from any country outside of Austria (Austrians join their local branch). Extra helicopter rescue can be found here if desired.
The tour: I travelled with Serge Lambert, a certified mountain guide. Details of the guide office are here. The day rate for a guide is around £400 a day which can be split between up to 6 guests. For hut-to-hut touring, you need to be a confident skier with some off-piste experience. For off-piste tuition or ski touring skills courses, try Mountain Tracks.
What to pack: You can hire touring skis, skins, and boots in most resorts for around £30 a day. You can also rent a transceiver, shovel, and probe. For hut-to-hut tours, take a 40-litre rucksack. The huts will provide sheets and duvets. Sleeping bag liners are compulsory.
Bel Jackson Prow is an adventure travel writer who is passionate about mountains and the transformational power of adventure. You can follow her on Substack too: The Adventure Path!
I wouldn't ever hire a car. Public transport in Switzerland is reliable and easy to use. I count it as part of the holiday .